INLET MANIFOLD GASKET
Always found the better option when replacing the inlet manifold gasket is not just detached from cylinder head while new gasket is fitted, but removed from the vehicle, its not that much more time consuming, makes it easier to work on, and gives better access for cleaning the mating surfaces of the unit, throttle body also removed, to take the opportunity for cleaning and polishing the internals.
The 4 x 8mm throttle body bolts were removed, easier and less of a disturbance with accelerator cable still attached, safe and not actually going anywhere. On assembly may need a new throttle body O ring MKG 100250, but not always be required.
Coolant can be drained off, or just syphoned to a lower level, vacuum hoses and various connectors are then removed during the process. Most obvious one being the brake servo vacuum hose, others not necessarily in order are the fuel feed and fuel return hoses etc, fuel return rail is attached to underside of the manifold by 2 x 8mm bolts, and will require new BAU-5325 fuel O rings.
During removal of the inlet manifold, the underside nuts would have normally been difficult to get at. With throttle body removed it was made that much easier, and with a better reach in access, for the 4 difficult lower 13mm nuts, for the top 3 nuts we just used a ring spanner.
Coilpack connectors were then disconnected, this part of the wiring can be withdrawn with the removal process of the inlet manifold. after the multi-connector, with the sliding locking tab (shown in the open position) is first detached.
Prior to fitting a new manifold gasket LKJ 101110 no sealant is required, the unit was cleaned internally, this needs a good clean to the internal space for the mixing of a combined flow of fuel and air. Also as stated a good polish to the throttle body internals.
All information on this site, applies 'only' to our own 1996 Rover 200 Series and the 2004 MG-ZR 120+ .